They say “An Englishman’s home is his castle”. I’m an Englishman, but with Francophile tendencies. So for me there are no castles, just chateau.
Situated in southern France, it sits in a lush green meadow, on the western side of a small river, which follows a narrow valley’s southerly course. Part of the eastern side of the chateau sits on a stone bridge like structure, which juts out almost halfway across the river, creating an effect reminiscent of Chenonceau, in the Loire valley. Just two hundred meters to the south, the river cuts through a white sandy beach, to empty itself into the clear blue Mediterranean sea.
The eastern slope of the valley is rugged garigue, which is generously endowed with wild lavender, rosemary and thyme. The Western side, once similar, has now been tamed and planted with top quality grapevines. Clusters of fragrant pine trees cling to the top of both the eastern and western ridges. To the north the valley bends sharply westwards, but this is hidden from view by a dense deciduous forest, which is the home of wild boar, deer and the occasional wolf.
A tarmacadam surfaced driveway follows the course of the river across the meadow from the forest. The driveway leads under the stone arches of the gatehouse, into the chateau courtyard, where the tarmac gives way to flagstones. In the centre of the courtyard is a large round stone trough, which is kept full of water by the gushing ornate fountain in its centre.
The chateau itself is Louis XIV era and it’s fortifications are for show rather than defence. There are three tall cylindrical towers, topped by grey slate conical roofs, almost worthy of being used as a set for a Cinderella movie. A small manicured garden in the style of the grounds of Versailles palace occupies the flat ground between the chateau and the base of the valley’s western slope.
It is impossible to say that my Chateau has a front or a back. Each of the four sides could be the front or the back, depending on ones mood. Generally you could say that which is the front and which is the back of the building is determined by the season.
The east and south tend to be the front in the spring and early summer, while the vineyard facing south and west assume the frontal role in late summer, the wine making season. The north is definitely the front during the autumn and winter, facing as it does, the forest which during this time turns from green to yellow, to golden amber, before becoming completely leafless and occasionally enchanted by deep frosts or powdery snow.
The internal layout of my chateau is more difficult to describe. It is more fluid. Somewhere there is always that extra previously forgotten or undiscovered room, which fulfils the need of the moment. However as might be expected, there are aspects of the interior, which are also seasonal.
Facing south are sunny bedrooms, with light floral patterned curtains, which billow in the spring breeze. The beds are made up with light cotton sheets, duvets and pillow cases. Vases of fresh flowers grace the dressing tables. The windows sport brightly painted wooden shutters, which are closed during the summer days, to keep out the heat. Scent from the flowers mixed with herbs from the garigue stimulate the senses. Occasional snatches of sound from Spanish guitars and French café accordions reach ones ears from an unknown source.
The north facing bedrooms have fireplaces and the beds are four posters. The long thick curtains would hardly rustle in a hurricane. The bedding is heavy linen, thick blankets and even heavier gilt embossed bed covers. Below the bedrooms on the ground floor, is a baronial style dining hall with a huge stone fireplace, a minstrel’s gallery and running through the centre, a single thirty five foot long, rugged oak dining table.
All of the north facing rooms are decorated with wallpapers, fabrics and masonry which are generously embellished with Fleur de Lys. Here the smell of roasted meats and mulled wines pervade. The sound of a solo hunting horn occasionally intrudes on the gentle tinkling of harpsichords.
In the summer months I host extravagant champagne tasting and cocktail parties on the south facing lawn. In the wintertime, my medieval feasts, at which my guests gorge themselves on venison from my forest and drink the full-bodied red wine from my vineyard, are legendary.
In my dreams … Right? …Right!
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